Dreamy Details at Dior Spring/Summer 2017

by Allysha Nila
We take you behind closed doors to witness the magic of the Dior Spring/Summer 2017 collection

A Tale to Tell

It is clearly the storytelling aspect that has enchanted viewers of the new Dior under Chiuri. The strongest of those stories belongs to Monsieur Christian Dior, the founder of the house and a superstitious man who was fascinated with astrology and believed in the power of tarot cards. Naturally, these elements have been infused into the collection as details. There are cosmic elements aplenty. For instance, a series of constellations has been embroidered by hand onto skirts, making the garments seem like they belong in the sky, drifting. As a personal touch, the word “J’adior” has been sewn thread by delicate thread to look like handwriting.

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A watercolour sketch serves as initial inspiration
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This tarot illustration ended up being used for bags on the runway
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A medley of details and sketches of its application final looks
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Finely embroidered insignia take the form of tarot cards

Updated Silhouettes

Dior is a historical house known for its construction, mostly due to the iconic silhouette of the New Look. In those days the waist-tucking Bar suit was rigid, and covered pretty much everything. Chiuri, however, presents light and exposing alternatives for today. Instead of using shantung (like the 1947 collection did) for her adaptations, she has opted for sheer tulle to create a range of relaxed bustier dress. As a result, Chiuri is able to play with layers, exposing briefs with Christian Dior waistbands. Despite its transparency, the design remains dignified.

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A seamstress works on a prototype of a bustier
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Making final trims to an embroidered piece of fabric
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A bustier is fitted to a Stockman mannequin, used by all couture houses
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The woven band is an important leitmotif for Dior Spring 2017, as seen on this L'Arcane Sans Nom dress
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The finished La Papesse dress

Mother Nature

Nature-centric details highlight the importance of Mother Nature to a woman. Take this quilted top adorned with a lobster, for instance – a softening element to the fencing-inspired, genderless attire in the collection’s initial looks. Other garments are covered in an array of foliage and fauna, all delicately embroidered and topped with beading. The hearts add a touch of emotion to a collection dubbed “feminist”. 

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La Lune dress being stitched
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Details of La Papesse dress, which also features bees, starry skies and hearts
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The tulle Le Pendu skirt is heavily beaded with leaves and hearts
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Embroidered details from the tulle La Lune shirt

Photography: Sophie Carre

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