Trans Designer Nicolas Lecourt Mansion Brings All That Glitters To Lady Gaga And More
At just 26, Nicolas Lecourt Mansion, winner of the 2019 Andam Creative Label prize, is a force of nature with a celebrity clientele that includes Lady Gaga, Kendall Jenner, Christine and the Queens, Nicki Minaj and more. Known for its crystal-covered confections and slinky silhouettes, Lecourt Mansion's namesake label is only three years old, but has already generated plenty of buzz with its inclusive and glamorous reputation.
Below, the designer speaks with L'Officiel about her experience in fashion as a trans person, the definition of French style, and why there’s no such thing as too much glitter.
Was Haute Couture a passion for you when you were young?
My father worked in men’s retail, and I would look at the fashion magazines in his office. I would try to draw Christian Lacroix and John Galliano’s wedding gowns. My favourite designer will always be Azzedine Alaïa. He knew how to listen to women.
You’ve worked with Rita Ora and Nicki Minaj during their tours. How does show business influence your designs?
Clothes must allow an artist to move freely. For Nicki and Rita, I was their personal tailor.
Why so much glitter?
I’m obsessed with brilliance, light and reflection — that’s why I enjoy designing stage costumes. For Andam, I worked with Swarovski. That collaboration gave me the opportunity to work with some amazing craftsmen. It was almost surgical in its meticulousness. I love this way of working, of staying connected to the manufacturing process.
How would you define your fashion?
Fearless. I create clothes the way I wear them. It’s visually therapeutic. It’s powerful.
Did receiving the Andam Prize in 2019 change the way you worked?
Yes, immensely. It gave me so much confidence. I was on tour with Nicki when the finalists were announced. I was so surprised when I heard my name!
Do you think that French fashion is inclusive enough?
No, fashion is never inclusive enough. I am a trans person, and I try to create fashion that is label-free. Jean-Paul Gaultier and Galliano were pioneers of inclusivity, but they were seen as freaks. Those who are nonconformist are not freaks. I’m different, but I'm not a freak.
Is there such a thing as ‘French style’? If so, what is it?
Yes! It’s couture, the process of turning craft into flamboyance. It is impertinent, sexy and maybe slightly vulgar.
