Anthony Vaccarello Serves a Quintessentially Saint Laurent Show For Spring/Summer 2025
Showing at Rue de Bellechasse for the second time, Vaccarello once again affirmed his creative talent with his Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Saint Laurent.
In Fall 2016, Anthony Vaccarello made his striking debut at Saint Laurent, unveiling a construction site as his runway, framed by a towering neon YSL logo against the Parisian night at the brand’s Left Bank headquarters on Rue de Bellechasse.
Fast forward to this year, and Vaccarello returned to that iconic setting—but with a twist. Instead of a gritty construction site, guests were greeted by a bold, surreal show space: a massive yellow oval suspended in the air, like a picture frame, enclosing a cobalt blue runway. The Paris rain only added to the atmosphere, imbuing Saint Laurent’s latest collection with a sense of mystery and romance rarely seen.
Vaccarello’s latest collection is a powerful tribute to the house’s founder, Yves Saint Laurent. From the oversized glasses to the sleek tailoring, the presence of the legendary designer was palpable. The men’s collection emphasized strength and control, with perfectly tailored silhouettes in restrained shades of beige, black, and plum. Double-breasted jackets and wide-leg trousers, paired with shirts and ties, radiated elegance and understated luxury.
Bold accessories—sunglasses, wide ties, jewel-encrusted shoes, and gold bracelets—added a distinct YSL flair. In a world where fashion often trends toward simplicity, Vaccarello’s intricate designs stood out for their complexity and personality. He resisted the industry’s minimalist tide, delivering a collection that exudes life and individuality.
In a seamless shift, Vaccarello transitioned to womenswear in the second half of the show, introducing vibrant eveningwear in brocade and lace. Wide-shouldered coats, sheer blouses, and narrow miniskirts in electric hues like fuchsia and kingfisher blue offered a blend of luxury and modernity.
Notably, Vaccarello’s earlier introduction of pajamas as an alternative to formal suiting resurfaced with damask tunics and wide-legged trousers—comfortable yet elegant, and a nod to Loulou de la Falaise, one of Saint Laurent’s muses. Shimmering silk dresses and the delicate clink of bracelets and necklaces added a touch of glamour and femininity. Yet, despite the transition from menswear to womenswear, the collection retained a bold confidence, mirrored in the models’ assertive strides.
Vaccarello artfully weaves classic Saint Laurent motifs into a collection that feels both nostalgic and contemporary. The brocade gowns evoked memories of the brand’s loyal patrons, like Nan Kempner, who helped cement Saint Laurent’s legendary status.
In today’s fashion world, which often plays it safe, Vaccarello’s return to the house’s roots is a daring move. His collection is a breath of fresh air—vibrant, full of character, and unmistakably Saint Laurent.
