Two days ago, Dior presented its Fall 2020 collection at the Jardin Des Tuileries, and succeeded in getting the fashion world talking with a politically charged first major show of Paris Fashion Week. Keeping in step with collections of the past (most recently, Haute Couture Spring 2020), creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri made an effort to use her show as a platform to propose discussions larger than just fashion.
In collaboration with the Claire Fontaine collective, Grazia Chiuri created a venue that was all but timid about addressing feminism from her distinct lens. Taking directly from an upcoming exhibition at Rome's National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art, one prominent quote on a wall read "I Say I," taken from the title of the upcoming exhibition "lo Dico lo – I Say I". Conceptual indeed. But what did it all mean? Grazia Chiuri explained in the accompanying notes that the show was a result of her gathering inspiration from a plethora of places: images of old couture clients, her own rebellious spirit, Germana Marucelli’s studio in Milan by artist Paolo Schegg, and a medley of other sources.
Translating all of her various inspirations, Grazia Chiuri delivered 85 coherent looks for the upcoming season. Aiming to strike what she called a "perfect balance," the designer also referenced founding couturier Christian Dior's book The Little Dictionary of Fashion to implement what she considered to be staple elements to the collection. Explorations of a vintage polka dot pattern, classic black and white looks, knitwear, and fringe all completed the melting pot of looks. Other recurring elements included lots of plaids and checked patterns (a Fall 2019 trend), various suiting options, and Dior's by now well-known staple, a graphic tee that drove home the larger messaging surrounding the show (this time, it read "I Say I"). Notable accessories included headscarves and newsboy caps crowning almost every look, fishnet socks, neckties, and signature logo belts and handbags.
While many of the collection details revisited what show attendees have come to expect from the design house in its current era, one can definitely admire the consistency and commitment given to storytelling that is near to Grazia Chiuri's heart. Regardless of what issues are at the centre of fashion in future seasons, we can all be assured when it comes to fostering the conversations around feminism and highlighting female artists, Grazia Chiuri won't be stopping anytime soon.
See select looks from the collection below: