In a poetic 10th anniversary tribute to his eponymous label, Simon Porte Jacquemus proved yet again why he is one of the most talked-about young designers of the period. The Spring 2020 menswear collection, “Le Coup De Soleil,” hit close to home for Jacquemus as he presented his pieces in a lavender field just miles away from where he grew up in the south of France.
Jacquemus utilized nature to make his vision come to life. Inspired by David Hockney’s 2011 installation The Arrival of Spring in Woldgate, East Hampshire, as well as artists Christo and Jeanne-Claude, the iconic scene featured a 500-meter fuschia catwalk that sprawled across a lavender field in full bloom. The summer sun provided extremely warm temperatures which reinforced the namesake “Le Coup De Soleil,” the French word for “the sunburn.” Attendees and models alike took the opportunity to use their new travel-sized tubes of sunscreen that doubled as the event invites.
“Le Coup De Soleil,” or The Sunburn, references the highly saturated colors appearing across the designs. Shades of warm and cool tones contrasted with 35 exclusive prints in each meticulously layered look. Although each look was a statement of its own, the most notable pieces played with a medley of relaxed workwear tailored uniquely to highlight the models' silhouettes. Accessories were seen in straw, crochet or needle details, through organic tailoring.
The collection also marks the first collaboration of Jacquemus and Swarovski. Numerous pieces featured shimmering crystals such as a crystal mesh polo shirt, a lace body-con dress embedded with crystals, and several crystal-embellished women’s heels.
“These exceptional Swarovski pieces reinforce the image of fantastical characters, too sophisticated for their context. In this setting, their radiance is a departure from the codes we expect to see in a Jacquemus show. And yet, they correspond to the artisanal spirit at the heart of the house,” Jacquemus said in a press release.
Jacquemus only presented his first menswear collection last season; however, the extreme praise behind this show certainly deploys our imagination towards the future as we can expect major things to come.