Hedi Slimane’s love affair with skinny jeans has come to an end. That was one of several clear messages he made at Celine’s Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear show in Les Invalides, Paris. Their replacement? Flared pants, the kind you would have spotted Mick Jagger wearing back in his 1970s heyday.
Those pants spelled out the easy, breezy attitude of the new Celine man. It’s all there in the “long hair, don’t care” look sported by the models; in the tees that featured slogans by American artist David Kramer (“There is no irony here”); in the white sneakers Slimane’s predecessor would have worn; and in the straw bags, the trendy summer accessory that Slimane is now giving men their share of.
Most of all, it was in the blue jeans, sacrilegiously paired with tailored jackets. With skinny jeans out of the picture, Slimane exercised his control on proportions elsewhere, through skinny ties and skinny belts. Evidently, the designer's definition of “casual” does not compromise on chicness.
But back to Mick Jagger. Slimane’s singular vision for the season was heavily anchored in the era of rock’n’roll. The show opened with a glittering three-piece suit that, if he weren’t so gaga for Gucci, we could easily picture modern day rockstar Harry Styles wearing. That suit unmistakably paved the way for the sequinned bomber jacket and the gold leather jacket later on. The ‘70s were also present through the aviators, the snakeskin Chelsea boots and the occasional animal print.
Sure, the new Celine man may not be that much different from his previous iterations, what with his impeccable suits and leather jackets and sunglasses, but Slimane has certainly made him slightly more approachable.
See all the looks below: