The mayhem at Dior’s annex in Paris’ Place de la Concorde before the show on Friday signified just how the Dior show has been placed at the zenith of popularity at Paris men’s fashion week. In just four high-flying seasons, Kim Jones has transformed the fashion house into one of fashion calendar’s hottest tickets within the house on avenue Montaigne.
The collection was a tour de force that took back the best of the archives while challenging the established order for men. The English artistic director manages to make us love things that we were previously forbidden to do, right down to our principles. Jones has proven that everything is still possible for the world of men, right at the time when we would have the right to doubt so.
This Dior Men fall-winter 20-21 collection undoubtedly opens a new decade and chapter in men's wardrobe ."Past, present, couture. A journey to the heart of haute couture", its title sums up quite well the state of mind of the creator, for whom fashion is a creative process in perpetual movement, well beyond a final, finished work. And this is possibly what makes the exercise so successful. Kim Jones has a talent for adapting classic tailoring codes to the aspirations of the new generation, both in androgyny and streetwear, resulting in a brazenly nonchalant sophistication that appears both so precious and easy. The collection features Iconoclastic silhouettes, ultra detailing, where aristocratic and punk influences collid in homage to the stylist Judy Blame, an iconic figure of London in the 80s famous for his high mastery of the eccentric.
The accessories oscillated between extreme refinement to a profusion of jewelry (still signed under Yoon Ahn) ,with opera gloves broken down in velvet, zips highlighting the architecture of the clothes, the almost military roughness of the ends, with large boots and berets recalling the codes of uniform. Whereas the clothes are close to perfect balance, made of games of improbable volumes, pleats and drapes in reference to the techniques of the workshops. Not forgetting the now famous "Dior Oblique" canvas, whose unexpected diagonal closure introduced two seasons ago by Kim Jones has now become a stylistic reference. Embroidery, moiré silk taffeta, arabesque and cashmere patterns and the new "Judy canvas" also came in to complete the picture. And with that, the public was won over.