Sixty years after 'Le Smoking' overturned all gender norms, Anthony Vaccarello brought this legendary icon back to its supreme position at the Fall/Winter 2026 show

Sixty years after Le Smoking first challenged traditional ideas of gender in fashion, Anthony Vaccarello has returned the iconic tuxedo to centre stage. At Saint Laurent&rsquo;s Fa/Winter 2026 show, he reintroduced the legendary silhouette with a look that felt cool, sharp and undeniably powerful, unveiled inside the brand&rsquo;s striking glasshouse &ldquo;sanctuary&rdquo;.
The show opened with eight black suits, and 14 appeared in total. Vaccarello used them to underline the discipline behind Saint Laurent tailoring. Every cut was carefully refined, measured down to the millimetre. Exaggerated shoulder pads added presence, while the removal of traditional lining allowed the garments to move with surprising flexibility.
Drawing from the sloping shoulders seen in recent menswear, Vaccarello adapted the idea for women using soft, flowing striped fabrics. Waistcoats were worn without bras, creating a clean, sculpted line through the waist. The result felt almost architectural. Each look framed the Saint Laurent woman as a commanding presence, sharp, confident and fully in control of the space around her.

Then came contrast. Alongside the strict tailoring was a rebellious wave of sheer lace. Vaccarello transformed lace and silicone into dresses that clung closely to the body, sometimes layered beneath tight latex jackets. The effect balanced strength with vulnerability.
Power and fragility met throughout the collection. Delicate silk dresses appeared beneath cocoon-like layers of fur, barely visible at times. Glossy coats and lace slip dresses were interrupted by oversized shearling pieces as soft as blankets, along with batwing bomber jackets and tunics inspired by medieval silhouettes, worn low on the hips.

This push and pull between concealment and exposure ran through the entire show. The setting amplified it. Models walked through a glasshouse inspired by the architecture of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, filled with the scent of Opium. The atmosphere suggested that romanticism has returned to high fashion, but with a sharper, more modern edge.
The repetition of suits also directed attention to the details that define the Saint Laurent woman. Make-up artist Pat McGrath created dramatic beauty looks with smoky eyes, sculpted cheekbones and glossy crimson lips. The style echoed the sensual imagery of Helmut Newton and the house&rsquo;s campaigns from the 1970s and 1980s.
Hair was slicked into a deep side part and gathered into a neat low bun. The overall effect felt more than nostalgic. It expressed what could be called &ldquo;hard-core chic&rdquo;: elegant, slightly decadent and undeniably strong.

Accessories reinforced that attitude. Oversized dove-shaped earrings, almost the size of brooches, sat alongside thick gold jewellery and Vaccarello&rsquo;s signature long-toed slingback shoes.
One detail stood out in the finale. The women in tuxedos carried no oversized &ldquo;It-bags&rdquo;. Instead, they held simple clutches. As Vaccarello explained to WWD, the idea was straightforward: a woman only needs &ldquo;a phone, a credit card and a picture of her child&rdquo;.
Saint Laurent&rsquo;s Autumn/Winter 2026 collection shows that Vaccarello is no longer working in the shadow of the past. He is reshaping it. His vision of the Saint Laurent woman balances discipline with indulgence, combining the authority of a gentleman&rsquo;s tuxedo with the magnetic danger of a modern femme fatale.

Celebrities at Saint Laurent's Fall/Winter 2026 Show

BLACKPINK's Rosé. (Courtesy of Saint Laurent)

Ahn Hyo-seop. (Courtesy of Saint Laurent)

Milk Pansa. (Courtesy of Saint Laurent)

Kento Yamazaki. (Courtesy of Saint Laurent)

Kiko Mizuhara. (Courtesy of Saint Laurent)

Francois Arnaud, Milk Pansa and Luther Ford. (Courtesy of Saint Laurent)

Anthony Vaccarello Revives 'Le Smoking' at Saint Laurent's Fall/Winter 2026

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