The Rise And Resurgence of Classic Combat Boots
We take a closer look at the evolution of combat boots – from military workwear to subculture iconography, and how they gained popularity in the 21st century.
The world first saw a pair of chunky black boots as a form of military workwear, dating back to the 1940s during World War II. The tactical boot was originally designed for a range of features, more so for its protection and durability under harsh environments, thus establishing its status as the staple footwear for special forces units across the globe. With their high-performing features, these functional pairs of shoes have since transformed into a fashion statement piece.
Integral to punk subcultures, combat boots played an important role in engaging the community. The artistic movement transcended the music scene, seeping into ideologies, visual art, literature, films and fashion codes. Stomping around in those utilitarian lace-up boots, they were oddly conspicuous when worn amongst the crowd of polish in the streets of the UK and the USA.
A symbol of deviance, the punks adorned combat boots with leather jackets, plaid, band tees, safety pins and more as a form of anarchy and chaos in rejecting the societal norms and rebelling against authority in the 1970s. The masculine, sleek aesthetic soon turned to a roughened-up look — a worn-out style that could take them through musical gigs and political strikes.
Here, we take a closer look at the icons of the punk movement and how combat boots became an essential component of their daily ensemble:
Sid Vicious
The true icon of punk, Sid Vicious was famously (or infamously) known for his nihilistic and self-destructive tendencies. As the vocalist and bass player of the punk band Sex Pistols, he reached the peak in Britain’s underground music scene and rose to prominence after the burgeoning of the punk movement in the '70s. Epitomizing the punk culture, the English band soon became a groundbreaking band that put the British on the map and grew to become a global phenomenon.
The controversial figure was often spotted in a bodacious style with drainpipe jeans and a pair of lace-up boots. Vicious’ style favoured tattered, torn-up shirts or graphic animal print tops accentuated with leather outerwear. The combat boots: An iconography of social revolution gained their appeal for their fearlessness and hard-wearing abilities. The coveted item was perfect for Vicious to perform on stage with since the volatile musician was notably known for picking up fights during gigs.
Pamela Rooke
Urban female legend of punk, Pamela Rooke (alternatively known as Jordan Mooney) carried a signature look that was solely true to herself. Her instantly recognisable icy white bouffant hairstyle and unconventional makeup look distinguished her as a unique icon of the subculture. As the “first face of punk”, she instantly caught the attention of those at the scene. Her idiosyncratic style, consisting of leather pencil skirts, skin-bearing looks and leather boots took the world by storm. The sartorial footwear took a turn when Rooke was seen bearing them, a different look from the other punks – which explains why she stood out amongst the community.
An iconic photo of Rooke emerged after her passing this year. She was seen sporting modernised punk elements, a chunky leather jacket with a black tulle skirt and not forgetting the emblematic footwear symbol, black lace-up combat boots.
As the decades go by, the iconic combat boot has stood the test of time and remains relevant today. Designers pay homage to the punk subcultures to create similar chunky soled boots with the houses’ personal twist, exclusive to the individual brands. Showcased on several runways, combat boots have been reintroduced in varying silhouettes and details, proving their timelessness and versatility. They are truly a pair that can take you from season to season and be easily matched with your wardrobe. Combat boots intrigue a sense of courage and confidence, a great way to add a touch of contrast to a feminine style or elevate a daring look.
Celebrities who were recently spotted wearing them include Kourtney Kardashian, donning an all-black ensemble with black leather boots, walking alongside her husband, Travis Barker, the drummer of punk-rock band Blink-182, as well as Disney star and singer Olivia Rodrigo. Carrying a more casual style, the cargo trousers and crop top add a hint of Y2K nostalgia to the punk-inspired footwear.
Explore the realm of combat boots here.