Miuccia Prada defines her Spring/Summer 2020 collection as "simple, not minimal". At the heart of everything there is the desire to cut the wardrobe down to the absolute essentials, to what is significant. Not an easy task given that "Fashion takes you easily by the hand, so you need to be able to distinguish between what is really strong and what is not".
"The feeling at the moment is about too much, too much of everything, too much," Prada said. But she also admits that "It's a total contradiction. We need to consume less, but they want newness - clients want it, journalists want it, press want it, people want it. So probably, it's a contradictory subject. The real truth is that everybody wants more and wants newness".
That's a lot to consider for the design process, but as Prada describes, the collection is fundamentally "about the power of women over clothing, and of style over fashion". The true protagonist of the show are the people.
For each of the models, Prada has built a look, trying to capture their character at its best. Each look represents a world of its own, a series of archetypes of elegance, interpreted by the nature of the model who wears it. "I love watching the girls backstage, to see if they like what they wear. This season, more than ever, it's about their personality more than style, because they define the eccentricity of a look."
Colours range from neutrals and black to gold flashes and orange flares. A masculine touch dominates the fabrics used, interspersed with more feminine raw silk gauze. Leather is also a star, rendered in beautiful shades of lilac and all-over retro prints. Bucket bags made of leather and straw stand out.
"I wanted to represent the common need to stop and understand what, even in fashion, makes sense and what doesn't," the designer concluded from the sidelines of the show. And judging by the looks, that's a mission more than accomplished. Check out the entire collection below: