Who dictates the look of the Tiffany watches now?
It’s a good question since Francesca Amfitheatrof left in January. As design director, she always had to ensure that our watches were in line with Tiffany, the brand. Designing watches is completely different from designing jewellery though, so we have an amazing, experienced designer in Switzerland, Anna, who worked with Francesca and will now work with Reed Krakoff [chief artistic officer, succeeding Amitheatrof] to create beautiful watches.
And you’ve met Reed? First impressions?
I met him for the first time on my last trip and we spent four hours together. I think he’s very creative, he knows what he wants and already has a line in mind. I like the fact that he’s dictating the line, but he empowers the team a lot. With the talent we have at Tiffany, that’s a very good thing. We agreed that we should create a more recognisable language in all our timepieces. Our watches have been inspired by different pieces from the past and also different design directors, so right now our watches aren’t immediately recognisable as a Tiffany watch. We plan to find some little details that will make every Tiffany watch very recognisable.
And what’s your pricing position going to be?
Very good question, because there is no answer (laughs), in the sense that Tiffany is a very different brand from all the other brands in the world. We call our positioning “inclusive luxury”, not exclusive luxury – and that’s a very American approach. You know, the fact that everyone can come to Tiffany, you start coming to Tiffany when you are very young, and maybe you can look for the most beautiful diamond in the world, then you keep coming back to Tiffany as you grow up, achieve in life and can afford bigger and more beautiful things. It’s also our approach with watches: We start at let’s say, US$3,000 for an entry level piece, and we go up to the sky. You know, our Blue Book this year has some amazing creations, fully encrusted with diamonds. But, you know for the people who appreciate the amazing and beautiful things in life, these things are not really expensive.