The Evolution of Subversive Fashion
As an act of social freedom and resistance against societal commentaries, we look into the subversive fashion of the contemporary era.
Fashion has always been a tool to protest and rebel against conformities, carrying a strong political voice in each article of clothing. Since the French Revolution, we have seen how French Royalty, Marie Antoinette utilised fashion politically to challenge the court. Over the several decades, artists and designers have begun to use fashion as a medium for communication, creating an impactful voice in the industry.
Presently, the line that draws and dictates how one should dress has been diminished. The subversive choice of clothing is now established thanks to the affirmation of non-binarism, where there is no clear categorisation of what a female or male should adorn.
Coined by fashion trend forecaster, Agus Panzoni, she shares about the “Subversive Basics” trend in a Tiktok video, rounding it up as a style to elevate and metamorphose basics till it loses its utility, and this style is relevant for all genders.
Following the anti-fashion trend, many have begun deconstructing and upcycling their wardrobes to create looks that are unconventionally tailored. Think asymmetry, mismatched pieces, cutouts, sheer textiles and twisted straps. There is no doubt that the pandemic has boosted the DIY culture, the "Subversic Basics" trend is just a cherry on top of it all.
Looking at the distinction of how subversive fashion is defined now and then, we look at the prominent works created by Rick Owens and Helmut Lang and how they have shaped this microtrend.
Rick Owens has always been known to be architectural and sculptural in his exploration of silhouettes. Since his first few runway presentations, he has managed to demonstrate the subversive through experimental techniques of draping, using textures from crinkled crepe fabrics and knits.
Austrian designer, Helmut Lang is acclaimed for his minimalist and deconstructive style since the '90s. His designs are the epiphany for the microtrend, creating androgynous garments that are cleverly layered and tailored. Lang’s works featured cut-outs and the artful pairing of elevated basics.
Essentially, the microtrend was bolstered to fame as it shows one’s individuality and personal expression. Fashionable individuals are now able to reimagine their wardrobes, pull out pieces that have gone out of style, and upcycle them into looks that align with one’s style. There is no right or wrong way to carry this trend.
