The big news at Saint Laurent this season? The house tackles oversized silhouettes. For Anthony Vaccarello, this meant almost 6 months of work, and fittings after fittings, in order to achieve a shape that is, well, loose-fitting whilst being structured at the shoulders. The brand is loosely (no pun intended) referring to the shape as the “rectangular silhouette”: large yet sculpted to the body, and referencing ’80s tailoring from YSL’s archives, of course. Vaccarello even rendered some pieces in patent for the most party-inclined of Saint Laurent girls.
Whilst shapes might be slightly slouchier, Saint Laurent’s most-loved details – leopard patterns, feathers, and OTT embellishments – are very much present in the Fall/Winter 2019 offerings. Although there is another tweak this season: all the sequins and beads on the season’s jackets and mini dresses are largely Oriental-inspired (Yves Saint Laurent had a fascination with Asian art and culture, leading to his Opium collection in the ’70s) and have been applied to appear as “flat” as possible. Another nod to the house’s design history? Decorating ready-to-wear and bags are graphic, diagonal black and white stripes, which also reference looks designed by Yves Saint Laurent in the ’80s.
There are the playful openings and plunging necklines favoured by Vaccarello – and like he says, the pieces are sexy, but not overly so.
Stripes are a key detail inspired by YSL looks of the ’80s.
Dresses and skirts that are flute- shaped visually elongate the body.
The Monogram All Over line debuted in summer, with suede offerings. Fall/ Winter sees the introduction of patent versions of styles including the bucket.
If the neon looks from the collection happen to be too much, the striking shoes, bags and accessories will add just a dose of desired colour.
This story was first seen in the September 2019 issue of L'Officiel Singapore.