The house of Givenchy has been making headlines lately. From its sneaker collaboration with Onitsuka Tiger to Ariana Grande becoming the new face of the Maison, the Italian brand isn't stopping anytime soon. To switch things up, artistic director Clare Waight Keller debut her first ever full, standalone menswear collection for Spring/Summer 2020 at Pitti Uomo — and it is impressive.
Inspired by the raved Korean streetwear style and her own memories of the 1990s, the collection boasts looks that scream tailoring-meets-athleisure. “I find what’s happening incredibly vibrant,” she said. “Particularly young men in Seoul, who are meticulous about fashion, sort of tribal, sort of cultish, and highly accessorized. They have a real passion for a look. Seeing them there reminded me of how we wanted to be in the ’80s and ’90s, of wanting to belong, to have the best of a look.” Her research opened her eyes: “Coming out of Asian culture, there’s this whole underground music subculture, where they take Art Nouveau typography and morph and liquefy it in computers to create album and CD covers. It’s super exciting.”
With experience comes confidence, they say. Keller spent her 20s growing up as a designer at Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. “It was Ralph who gave me a classic education, a good education in tailoring,” she says. “I was in New York the whole of the ’90s, the best time. So that’s why I wanted to bring what I love, the tailoring. I dipped back—to a three-button suit, which felt modern again.”
With suits of several shapes making their way onto the runway, alongside the return of the three-button silhouette with a slightly softer shoulder jacket paired with other accessories, Givenchy has a way to balance athleisure and fine tailoring. What makes the collection distinct is the fabrics Keller discovered in Korea. From the nylon raincoat with a velvet finish to sweeping parkas in parachute-y material, Keller captured the essence of Korean streetwear in this collection.
Discover Givenchy's Spring/Summer 2020 Men's collection below: