Chemena Kamali revisits Chloé’s archives and enduring obsessions through a sensual collection shaped by instinct, memory and desire.

For Spring/Summer 2027, Chemena Kamali is not simply designing a new collection for <a href="https://www.lofficielsingapore.com/fashion/chloe-fall-winter-2026-collection-runway-folk-spirit-weaves-celebrities-paris-fashion-week" title="Chloé's Fall/Winter 2026 is A Folk-Inspired Celebration of Craft and Community" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Chloé</a>. She is making a declaration of love. “I wanted something deeply personal, to return to what I love and the emotions these things evoke in me,” explains the designer, whose approach is guided by feeling and instinct.
Rather than looking to the archives for silhouettes to simply reproduce, Kamali searches for the archetypes that form part of <a href="https://www.lofficielsingapore.com/fashion/every-look-chloe-fall-winter-2024-runway-show-paris-fashion-week" title="Chloé Reintroduces Bohemian Chic for This Fall/Winter Season" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Chloé</a>’s intimate memory: familiar shapes, materials and gestures that have come to define the House. Her inspirations unfold as a series of personal obsessions, each one feeding the creative process and giving the clothes their emotional resonance.
English embroidery sits at the heart of the collection. A reference to Chloé’s first “young girls’ dresses”, it is reimagined through motifs drawn from 19th-century archives. Delicate needlework appears across crisp cottons, structured organza and airy muslin, shaping romantic blouses, dresses reminiscent of nightgowns and tops with a harness-like quality.
The embroidery does not stop at clothing. Its signature eyelets spill onto leather bags and high boots, while guipure lace, pearls, silk tassels and three-dimensional flowers add further layers of texture. Together, these details reveal an abundance of craftsmanship that feels unmistakably couture, yet never overly precious.
Flowers take centre stage this season, inspired by the raised embroidery of the 1960s and the rich history of Chloé ready-to-wear. They bring depth and texture to the collection without weighing down the silhouettes, capturing one of the House’s most enduring contradictions: sophisticated yet carefree, polished yet spontaneous, feminine yet youthful.
Necklines become another defining feature, with sweetheart, boat, square and V-neck shapes providing the foundation for a series of distinctive looks. Lingerie, one of Kamali’s recurring obsessions, is stripped of traditional lace and transformed into romantic, graphic and almost imperceptible harnesses. They sit close to the body like secret traces of Chloé’s DNA.

Courtesy of Chloé

Beyond these intimate pieces, the collection takes on a freer, almost cinematic character. References to 1970s fishermen appear in yellow raincoats and oversized Western hats, while layers of transparent vinyl in smoky tones recall 1950s rainwear. Protective yet dramatic, these pieces use transparency to create a distinctly graphic effect, while their practical origins reflect Chloé’s ability to turn the everyday into something desirable.
The House’s history also comes through in its tailoring, particularly in the influence of Karl Lagerfeld. Among Kamali’s personal obsessions is a white suit created by the couturier for Chloé in 1972, distinguished by its scalloped edges. That silhouette becomes the starting point for a broader exploration of the woman in a men’s suit, an enduring figure within the House’s heritage.
Since joining Chloé, Kamali has embraced the sun-kissed nonchalance, natural femininity and youthful energy that have long defined the brand, while filtering these memories through a distinctly contemporary perspective. Here, the past is not preserved behind glass. It is constantly reinterpreted and brought back to life.
Everything in the Spring/Summer 2027 collection comes back to desire, memory and attachment. The archives are not treated as a catalogue of references to be copied, but as living material that Kamali can reshape through her own emotions. English embroidery meets vinyl. Couture flowers meet fishermen’s silhouettes. Lingerie becomes harnesses, while menswear becomes an expression of femininity.
The result is a collection built on contrasts and personal obsessions, but above all on a simple conviction: to truly love a fashion house is to keep finding new ways to remain faithful to it.&nbsp;

Chloé Summer 2027 Show

The Chloé Summer 2027 Show by Chemena Kamali

Celebrities at Chloé's Spring/Summer 2027 Show

Chloé Spring/Summer 2027 Is a Love Letter to the House’s Heritage

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