With the end of fashion month marred with an ongoing coronavirus anxiety and a pension fund protest, Muiccia Prada’s Miu Miu show was a much welcome moment of pure respite and positivity.
The Fall Winter 2020-2021 show was staged inside August Perret's Palais d'Iéna, a plush theatre that was reinterpreted for the occasion with added daring déco by studio AMO, under the same spirit of revolution by Miuccia Prada.
The collection deals with “the enduring fascination of charm, an exercise in attraction -- fashioning pleasure, and the pleasure that fashion can give,” according to the Italian brand’s instagram. It featured some of the best cult pieces of the brand, from the bon ton schoolgirl style of the 30s/40s, to the Lolita 60s, up to the young femme fatale 80s' in leopard eco-fur, featuring Gothic leather and metal spikes, topped with Hitchcockian diva-like hair.
The robe manteau, the overcoats that become dresses, side slits and shirt collars, were both rigorous and sexy, decorated with jewel cameos. The long coats were combined with ankle-skimming long silk dresses in warm shades of orange, lemon yellow or emerald green; from faux fur jackets and coats with skirts in transparent tulle with encrusted crystals.
Crystals generously shone in bodies dressed in transparent tulle in combination with sheath skirts with jewel buttons, details which shone through even with the most rigorous of sleeves.
The mood of the "game of fashion" continued with midi dresses in taffeta, puffed sleeves and balloon skirts, flowers embroidered with a maxi V-neck, leopard prints, and punk elements. To continue with the Gothic universe with amphibians with pointed studs and mini leather dress (always with jewel decorations) and long dresses with slits worthy of a modern heroine style Portrait of a Lady by Henry James, and conveyed a strong sense of nostalgic romance that the brand is well known for.
Members of the Miu Miu Squad included a surprise first appearance on the catwalk with Euphoria actress Storm Reid in an orange satin maxi dress and overcoat. This was followed by the Hadid sisters, Kaia Gerber and Rita Ora, where the latter was dressed in a navy blue military coat with collar, red wedge sandals and décor crystals. Complete tartan suits and dresses came in shades ranging from red to yellow, passing through blue and green and were enhanced by the use of pearls. Here, rebellion is chic, does not commit and simply makes you dream, giving us an aesthetic that we once again simply want to emulate.