Kim Jones’ debut for Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection was certainly going to be a collection to remember. But it was his unique fusion of influences — the renegade British sensibility of the Bloomsbury Group and a homage to the rich Roman heritage of the maison, combined with a roster of some of the biggest names in fashion, that has certainly left its mark on our consciousness.
Demi Moore opened the show in a structured black suit, and was soon followed by Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne, Adwoa Aboah, Christy Turlington, Bella Hadid and Lila Grace Moss - Kate's daughter, and finally, Naomi Campbell closing the show. Held at the Palais Brongniart, the models glided amidst a maze-like assembly of gardens and library shelves.
Under his new role as artistic director of womenswear for the Rome-based brand, Jones presented a remarkable debut that highlighted the impact that beautiful clothes can still carry, in a time of athleisure and WFM outfits. Gilded gowns, sheer skirts, exaggerated bell-sleeves and over the top Victorian chandelier earrings harkened to a time of old world beauty, decadence, and elegance.
Virginia Woolf comes as a strong influence in the Fendi Haute Couture dreamscape, a nod to Jones' personal biography. Having grown up a short distance from Woolf's home, Monk's House, to after-school trips to sketch from the frescos and furnishings of Charleston Farmhouse, the spirit of Bloomsbury was omniscient throughout his formative years, and evolved into a fixation on the creative set, guiding his direction for the collection. For instance, Woolf's Orlando, which played along the themes of gender constructs, were reflected in the numerous flowing, gender-neutral designs.
"Vain trifles as they seem, clothes have, they say, more important offices than to merely keep us warm. They change our view of the world and the world’s view of us," began the collection notes from a quote from Woolf. Indeed, a pertinent reminder of the impact clothes can have when they are done well.
Check out the collection here: